Impeccable clothes in Lisbon's heat: the secret of an AL in Alfama

31 degrees. Feels like 35. The portable air conditioner in the Alfama apartment looks more like a broken hair dryer. And you have three check-ins on the same day, with Sporting playing at home tomorrow and the Assumption of Our Lady holiday falling on a Friday. The German guest asked for starched sheets because "that's how it's done in Germany". The Brazilian family wants soft towels, but without a crease. And the French couple booked the apartment because they saw the photographs with the bed linen...