Neighbors, Football and Wrinkled Shirts: Survival Guide

Forget the "how to remove red wine stains" you find in any 2005 magazine. This is not one of those manuals. This is about real life in Lisbon when your free time is an urban myth and the pile of ironing grows as if it's being watered. We're talking about shirts that need to be impeccable for a dinner in Graça, sheets that have to be ready for a guest in Alfama, and the lucky sweater that must be washed before the first league game.